Polygel Nails Are a Gel-Acrylic Hybrid That Won't Damage Your Natural Nails

02 Nov.,2023

 

Polygel nails are a great enhancement option if you're looking for versatility in shape and length. The method, which many pros swear by, can extend the length of your nails or create a solid base for a neutral mani or something more colorful. For more information on the dazzling effects of Polygel, we spoke with three nail experts: Syreeta Aaron, Naomi Gonzalez-Longstaff, and Evelyn Lim. Read on for all the facts about polygel before you book your next nail appointment. 

Meet the Expert

  • Syreeta Aaron is a LeChat Nails educator and nail artist based in Montgomery, AL.
  • Naomi Gonzalez-Longstaff is an international nail designer, artist, and celebrity manicurist.
  • Evelyn Lim is a nail artist based in New York City and the chief educator at the SoHo nail studio, Paintbox.

What Are Polygel Nails?

According to Lim, Polygel—often referred to as Acrygel—is a hybrid product of acrylic and gel. Polygel is a hybrid nail enhancement formula that combines the durability of acrylic nails and the elasticity application of gel nails, Aaron explains. The process and the materials used in the manicure, though, are quite different.

Polygel, which is sold in a tube much like toothpaste, is a mixture of acrylic powder and clear gel, says Aaron. Polygel also has a putty-like consistency and is extremely easy to apply and shape, Lim adds. In Gonzalez-Longstaff's opinion, Polygel is a leading nail enhancement on the market: "It offers the nail professional the time and space to really deliver on sculpting and constructing the most architecturally structured nail," she says.

Polygel vs. Gel vs. Acrylics

Confused about the differences between gel, acrylic, and Polygel manicures? See below for some basic comparisons.

  • Gel: The thinnest of the three nail enhancements. "Gel polish on natural nails can bend the nails, causing breakage," Aaron warns. To strengthen your nails between gel enhancements, be sure to keep your cuticles covered and don't pick your polish off.
  • Acrylic: Acrylic is a great option if you're looking for longer nails. To apply, an acrylic powder called monomer must be used.
  • Polygel: Polygel nails are a lightweight, flexible alternative to acrylic nails. The formula can be applied to the natural nail or on top of a nail form to create an extension.

How Are Polygel Nails Applied?

If you're looking to apply Polygel nails at home, you'll need a few things, including a Polygel nail kit. Lim recommends the Red Iguana Acrygel Starter Kit ($60), which includes primer, polygel, a spatula, dual forms, and a top coat).

Full Set

For a natural look, Gonzalez-Longstaff recommends overlaying Polygel onto the natural nail. "It also works very well when shaping around the cuticle area, designing the most perfect linear construction," she says. Below, Lim outlines what you can expect from an initial full set of Polygel nails:

  1. The first step is sculpting the natural nail into the desired shape.
  2. Next, the cuticle (the thin layer of tissue attached to the nail plate) is removed and the nail plate is buffed.
  3. Any debris on the nail is removed with a lint-free wipe soaked in nail surface cleaner.
  4. Depending on the brand of the Polygel, this step will vary. After applying a dehydrator to the natural nails, either an acid-free primer is used or a gel base coat will be applied.
  5. The nails are cured (dried) for a duration specified by the Polygel brand under an LED light.
  6. Now, it's time to add the Polygel. A pea-sized amount is applied to the nail plate.
  7. A brush is dipped into a slip solution (a solution that makes it easier to shape the Polygel) and used to pat down the Polygel and sculpt the nail into the desired shape and length. Lim recommends Sleek Nail Harmony Gelish Polygel Slip Solution ($9) and the dual-ended Makartt Poly Nail Gel Brush & Picker ($10).
  8. The nails are cured again for 30 to 60 seconds. Again, this will vary depending on the Polygel brand.
  9. The nails are shaped, buffed, and wiped with a lint-free wipe covered in nail surface cleaner. 
  10. Then, a gel top coat is applied. 
  11. The nails are cured for another 30 to 60 seconds.
  12. Finally, the nails are wiped once more with a lint-free wipe soaked in nail surface cleanser. The process is now complete.

Sculpted Extension

For this application, the first four steps are the same as with a full set application, but instead of applying the Polygel onto the natural nail, a nail form is placed on top of the natural nail. Polygel is then applied onto the nail form and sculpted into the desired shape and length. The nails are then cured under an LED light. Next, the nail form is removed and steps 8–10 are followed.

Fill-In

After approximately three to four weeks, it will be time to have your Polygel manicure filled in. Similar to the maintenance of acrylic nails, Polygel nails typically don’t need to be fully removed and reapplied during each visit. Instead, they are simply filled in for maintenance (your nail technician will advise when it is time to fully remove your Polygel nails and come in for a fresh application). During a fill-in, the Polygel remains on the nail and is filed down. Next, more Polygel (a pea-sized amount) is added near the cuticle to fill in the area where the nail has grown over time. Finally, steps 7–12 of the full set application are repeated.

Pink and White Nails

Similar to acrylic powder, which comes in different colors (i.e., white, clear, pink, etc.), Polygel also comes in a wide variety of colors. Want a Polygel french manicure? No problem, the same steps used for a full set application are followed—except that for this method, each color is applied and cured separately.

Pros and Cons

"Some pros to polygel is longer wear, which lasts about three to four weeks," says Lim. "They are also easy to apply and shape, don't require mixing, are lightweight, and odorless."

Polygels are maintained by filling in with more product to the area of growth resulting in quicker service time, which can be considered a con for some who prefer to remove the entire product and start with a fresh application each time. "Another negative to polygels is taking down the product for a fill or removal as it is a stronger product. For best results, the enhancement should be taken down with an e-file without damaging the nail plate, which can be done safely at home with some practice."

The Cost

The price for Polygel nails will depend on the type of Polygel application. While a full set or sculpted extension application may range from $55 to $150, a fill-in typically doesn’t exceed $80. 

How Long Do Polygel Manicures Last?

According to Lim, Polygel manicures can last up to three to four weeks. The longevity of your Polygel manicure will also depend on the length of the nail and your lifestyle, adds Aaron. If you’re involved every day with activities that are rough on your hands, your Polygel manicure may not survive the full month.  

Polygel, like acrylics, is certainly more expensive than a basic gel manicure, but in my experience, it lasts almost twice as long. If you get a light nude or pink color, it’s hard to tell when the manicure has grown out, making it last even longer than you might think. "Polygel nails have the strength of an acrylic yet lightweight and flexible like a gel, therefore, they are less prone to break and lift," adds Lim.

Are Polygel Manicures Safe for Your Nails?

If applied and removed properly, Polygel manicures are perfectly safe for your nails. Polygel can be considered safer than other nail enhancements—like acrylics—as no chemicals are released into the air during application. But keep in mind that Polygel nails should always be removed by a professional. 

The Takeaway

As Gonzalez-Longstaff notes, Polygel manicures are still fairly niche, meaning that many nail artists still have to properly educate themselves on the special technique. "With anything that we do in the industry with nails, practice makes perfect," Aaron says. "With Polygel, some may be thicker than others, [and] when it comes to the different brands [of Polygel], some applications may be more difficult. Polygel is a product that you just have to practice with and find the right brand that fits you." Ultimately, if you love a longer nail or are looking to enhance what you're already working with, Polygel is worth considering.

FAQ

  • How do you remove Polygel nails?

    In general, you'll want to steer clear of any harsh removal methods. At-home kits may instruct you to remove Polygel by filing off and soaking in acetone; however, to avoid any damage to nails, it's always recommended to have your Polygel removed by a professional at a salon.

  • Is Polygel bad for your nails?

    Polygel is not inherently bad for your nails. As long as it is removed properly, Polygel should pose no harm to nails. Still, it's good to take a break from Polygel—or any polish or nail enhancement for that matter—from time to time. This will give you the opportunity to focus on properly caring for your nails and reversing signs of dehydration and damage.

  • Who should use Polygel nails?

    If you are sensitive to odors and chemicals, Polygel is a great alternative to acrylic nails. It's also more durable than your standard gel polish and less likely to damage your nails. Overall, if you are looking for a strong and flexible nail polish/enhancement that goes beyond gel and acrylic—and have healthy nails—you might want to give Polygel a shot.

  • Can I use nail tips with Polygel?

    Yes, Polygel can be applied over an acrylic nail tip.

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